Arrival & First Impressions

We landed in Jammu with a toddler’s chatter, my mother’s steady calm, and a plan that was half wedding calendar and half “let’s see what we find.” The city surprised us: warm people, wide skies, low hills, and a slow rhythm that allowed a three-generation family to move at whichever pace we needed — sprinting for a temple beep, or stopping for a steaming plate of lunch. Watching Zoey discover stones, fountains, and fragrant food was the kind of joy that rewires you for the better.

Bagh-e-Bahu & the Aquarium

Our first full morning was at Bagh-e-Bahu: terraced Mughal-style gardens that slope down to the Tawi river. Zoey ran between fountains while my mother pointed out blooms that reminded her of other gardens she loved. The recently added underground aquarium — long and winding beneath the garden — was a particular treat for Zoey: glass windows, small tanks, and a few startlingly bright fish that made her clap. The aquarium opened up as a gigantic fish mouth, and once we finished our tour with multitudes of fish and marine life, we exited through its tail. The Bagh-e-Bahu complex (and its aquarium) is one of Jammu’s signature spots and is often described in local tourism guides for its terraces, fountains, and new aquarium.

Akhnoor Fort — Stones That Hold Time

We drove out to Akhnoor Fort, which sits above the Chenab and reads like a history book in red stone. The ramparts, the watchtowers, and the way the Chenab moves beneath it made for a dramatic afternoon. Walking along the fort with Zoey and my mum, I kept thinking about how small we were against that old stone — and how alive the place felt when a child’s laughter echoed through its courtyards. The fort’s long history and archaeological layers make it a key site for anyone curious about the region’s past.

Mubarak Mandi & the Dogra Past

Mubarak Mandi Palace folded us into the city’s royal story: carved arches, the Pink Hall, the Dogra Art Museum, and courtyards that have seen ceremonies and quiet afternoons. Even parts that are under restoration still carry a dignity that makes you pause and listen. Inside the Dogra Art Museum, small paintings and royal artefacts felt like letters from a different time — the kind of detail my mother loved explaining to Zoey, turning history into a family story.

Mansar Lake — A Slow Morning by the Water

One morning, we left the city noise for Mansar Lake: boating, birds, soft hills, and the easy patience of places that expect pilgrims and picnickers alike. Zoey counted ripples and tried to spot fish; my mother told me about boating when she was young. The lake felt restorative — a pause between forts and feasts — and gave us a quiet afternoon to simply breathe together.

Jammu Ropeway — Hanging by a Thread (and the Life Flash)

We decided to take the ropeway together — a promise of views and a little thrill for Zoey. The cable carried us up like a small glass box over the city and hills; Zoey squealed at the sight, my mother hummed an old song, and I felt the uncomplicated pleasure of being there with both of them. Then, mid-ride, the car stopped. Just a tiny technical glitch, the kind everyone later calls “a story,” but in that suspended minute it was enormous.

For a few heartbeats, my mum and I looked at each other and saw the same sudden, bright slide-show of our lives — nonsense, mercy, names, and the tiny practical worry that made my chest tighten: if something happens to us here, who will tell my husband waiting back home? That thought — domestic and absurd and sharp — made the fear feel both immediate and strangely ordinary. I held Zoey’s hand until it warmed me; my mum touched my arm like she always has. Rescue came — calm, professional, and a little apologetic — and when we stepped off the ropeway, our legs trembled and we laughed and cried in the same breath.

That moment could have shadowed the trip, but instead, it made the rest of the days sweeter. After the scare, we became more careful and determined to make the most of our remaining time: enjoying more gelato at a small shop, taking a longer boat ride on Mansar, and entering the wedding with full hearts. The memory of hanging in the middle is now a tiny, dramatic knot in our family story — that raw little flash of mortality wrapped tightly around relief and gratitude.

Food: Rogan Josh, Rajma, and the Non-Veg Feast

Food in Jammu is a warm, unpretentious celebration. We ate Rogan Josh — slow-cooked lamb that smelled of spices and comfort — and a rajma chawal that tasted like home on a plate. The non-veg dishes around town carried mountain-herb notes and generous gravies; street stalls and family kitchens both felt like part of the welcome. Each meal became a small ceremony: Zoey learning how to wipe her fingers, my mother joking about how two spoons of gravy are never enough, and me quietly thinking this is how travel anchors memory.

The Wedding: Haldi, Mehendi, Satim Doh & The Big Day

Attending a Jammu/Kashmiri wedding for the first time was wonderfully full of ritual, color, and affection. The haldi and mehendi were intimate and loud in the best way: cousins laughing, turmeric-smudged hands, and flowers braided into hair. We joined the Satim Doh feast (a traditional seventh-day family feast following Kashmiri wedding customs), watched the bride wear bright colors over many days, and sat through the wedding day itself with all its music and warmth. Celebrating these customs with my mother beside me — and Zoey watching the dancing and food with wide eyes — felt like a passing of stories and a gentle promise to keep them.

Three Generations, One Suitcase of Stories

Traveling with a toddler and a parent means navigating negotiations: deciding on naps and snacks, whose memory of a place is stronger, and whose hands are best for lifting a small shoe out of a fountain. But it also means triple the laughter and three different ways of seeing a place. Zoey’s curiosity made every site new; my mother’s memories made everything familiar; and being the bridge between them made me sift the ordinary into small treasures I now tuck away.

Practical Tips (what we learned)

• Comfortable walking shoes for exploring forts and gardens, and stroller-friendly paths.

• Carry snacks and a refillable water bottle to help manage a toddler’s mood emergencies.

• Try local non-veg specialties and simple rajma chawal at a local home or trusted dhaba.

• Plan a slow morning at Mansar Lake — boats and shaded ghats are toddler-friendly.

• If you’re curious about local rituals, ask gently — families welcomed us into their events with warmth.

Closing — A Small, Bright Collection of Days

This trip gave me a small stack of perfect snapshots: Zoey asleep on my shoulder after a long day of mehendi, my mother pointing out a carved arch in Mubarak Mandi, the three of us sharing a single plate of rajma because we couldn’t decide who loved it most. Jammu gave us history, water, forts, and a wedding that stitched us into one more story. I came back to Delhi knowing we’d changed slightly — softer, a little more patient, and more certain that small adventures are big medicine.

Relevant Reads

• Our Sardhana Church Trip

• Our Taj Mahal Trip